Saw (preferably a miter saw)
Optional - planer
- 4 2x4 boards , Measured to the height of your room (number will vary depending on how wide and tall your divider is)
Hardware & Supplies
- 1 Paint
- 1 Box of pocket-hole screws 2 1/2" (see tools list)
- 1 Box of concrete anchor screws (1/4" x 3 1/4")
Cut List & Parts
- 2 Top and bottom board , Cut to the width you want your room divider to be
- 4 Vertical uprights , Cut to the height of your room minus the top and bottom boards (number will vary)
Fill, sand and prime boards
I used 2x4’s to create this room divider. Be sure to pick the straights and flattest boards with the least amount of knots. It would be nearly impossible to get perfect boards, so I filled any imperfections will wood filler to and sanded the boards to 120 grit and then primed them. I primed them before installation because there are less corners and therefore easier to paint this way.
Install bottom board into subfloor
After determining the size of your divider, install the bottom board into your subfloor. I used two (2) concrete anchor screws 1/4” x 3 1/4” long to do this. You want this board to be flush against the wall and perpendicular to the wall, remove baseboard if necessary.
Attach first upright to wall
Attach 1st upright directly to wall, into stud or use drywall anchors, on top of bottom board.
Attach top board to trusses in ceiling
Attach top board directly to trusses in ceiling or use drywall anchors too secure. Be sure that top board is perpendicular to wall. You can use a framing square or a plumb bob to ensure that the top and bottom boards line up.
Layout spacing of your uprights and mark on both the top and bottom boards.
Since most houses aren’t square and have differences throughout I suggest cutting each of the uprights individually to fit where you are going to put them. From left to right my uprights had a difference of about 3/8”.
Drill pocket holes
Using your Kreg pocket hole jig drill two 1 1/2” pocket holes into each end of the uprights. I placed my pocket holes and the uglier side of the board and faced them toward the back wall because they wouldn’t really be seen.
Install uprights with pocket-hole screws
Install uprights using 2 1/2” pocket hole screws. Again, I spaced mine about 6” apart but your overall room divider size and number of slats will determine your spacing.
Fill, caulk, sand and paint!
After installing all the uprights I filled any holes that I might have missed the first time around. I also used Kreg’s solid wood pocket holes plugs to fill the pocket holes. And then I caulked any seems, like up against the wall and at the ceiling. And then after a good sanding I painted by room divider with two coats of paint (SW Tricorn Black).