Room Divider

By The Awesome Orange
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Kreg Academy Kreg Academy

This slatted modern DIY room divider gives your space personality while still allowing light to come through and just be AWESOME!

Difficulty easy

Tools

Kreg Tools

Other Tools

  • Saw (preferably a miter saw)
    Saw (preferably a miter saw)
  • Drill
    Drill
  • Sander
    Sander
  • Optional - planer
    Optional - planer

Materials

Wood Products

  • 4 2x4 boards , Measured to the height of your room (number will vary depending on how wide and tall your divider is)

Hardware & Supplies

  • 1 Paint
  • 1 Box of pocket-hole screws 2 1/2" (see tools list)
  • 1 Box of concrete anchor screws (1/4" x 3 1/4")
See All Tools & Materials

Cut List & Parts

  • 2 Top and bottom board , Cut to the width you want your room divider to be
  • 4 Vertical uprights , Cut to the height of your room minus the top and bottom boards (number will vary)
See Full Cut List & Parts

Directions

  • Fill, sand and prime boards

    I used 2x4’s to create this room divider. Be sure to pick the straights and flattest boards with the least amount of knots. It would be nearly impossible to get perfect boards, so I filled any imperfections will wood filler to and sanded the boards to 120 grit and then primed them. I primed them before installation because there are less corners and therefore easier to paint this way.

    Step 1

  • Install bottom board into subfloor

    After determining the size of your divider, install the bottom board into your subfloor. I used two (2) concrete anchor screws 1/4” x 3 1/4” long to do this. You want this board to be flush against the wall and perpendicular to the wall, remove baseboard if necessary.

    Tip:

    Note: Everybody’s room will be different sizes, so each room divider will be different. The ceiling height in my sunken living room was 103 1/2” H and I made the width of my room divider 46” which left the spacing in between each slat approximately 6”.

    Step 2

  • Attach first upright to wall

    Attach 1st upright directly to wall, into stud or use drywall anchors, on top of bottom board.

    Step 3

  • Attach top board to trusses in ceiling

    Attach top board directly to trusses in ceiling or use drywall anchors too secure. Be sure that top board is perpendicular to wall. You can use a framing square or a plumb bob to ensure that the top and bottom boards line up.

    Step 4

  • Layout spacing of your uprights and mark on both the top and bottom boards.

    Since most houses aren’t square and have differences throughout I suggest cutting each of the uprights individually to fit where you are going to put them. From left to right my uprights had a difference of about 3/8”.

    Tip:

    NOTE: If you were to build this wall separately and then try to install, you would need to make it shorter than your ceiling height and therefore have a gap that would need to be covered by trim. I didn’t want any trim and that is why I installed by room divider in place.

    Step 5

  • Drill pocket holes

    Using your Kreg pocket hole jig drill two 1 1/2” pocket holes into each end of the uprights. I placed my pocket holes and the uglier side of the board and faced them toward the back wall because they wouldn’t really be seen.

    Step 6

  • Install uprights with pocket-hole screws

    Install uprights using 2 1/2” pocket hole screws. Again, I spaced mine about 6” apart but your overall room divider size and number of slats will determine your spacing.

    Step 7

  • Fill, caulk, sand and paint!

    After installing all the uprights I filled any holes that I might have missed the first time around. I also used Kreg’s solid wood pocket holes plugs to fill the pocket holes. And then I caulked any seems, like up against the wall and at the ceiling. And then after a good sanding I painted by room divider with two coats of paint (SW Tricorn Black).

    Step 8