- 2 3/4" red oak boards , 1x6 , 96"
- 3 3/4" red oak boards , 1x6 , 72"
- 1 Oak plywood , 1/4" Thick , Quarter Sheet
Hardware & Supplies
- 42 Kreg 1 1/4" fine pocket screws
- 12 1 1/4" brad nails
- 1 Minwax Wood Finish - Weathered Oak
- 1 Minwax Tung Oil
- 1 Titebond I wood glue
Cut List & Parts
- 2 Outside Stiles - 3/4" Red Oak , 3/4" X 56" X 4"
- 3 Rails - 3/4" Red Oak , 3/4" X 52" X 4"
- 1 Center Stile - 3/4" Red Oak , 3/4" X 11" X 4"
- 6 Slats - 3/4" Red Oak , 3/4" X 8" X 4"
- 1 Top - 3/4" Red Oak , 3/4" X 61" X 1 1/4"
- 2 Panels - 1/4' Oak Plywood , 1/4" X 24 3/4" X 11"
Please be sure to read through complete instructions before you begin any work on this project. It is also a good idea to dry fit the components before adding glue and doing final assembly.
Cut out 3/4" red oak pieces
Using the dimensions on the following diagram cut out the two outer stiles, the three rails, the one center stile, the eight slats and finally the top piece. The 56 inch height of the outer stiles can be adjusted depending on the height of your mattress.
Outer stile panel grooves
Please see the following diagram for the stile groove detail. Start cutting the groove in both stiles at 15 1/2" from top and stop at 26 1/2" from top.The groove is 1/4" wide centered in the edge of the board and is 3/8" deep. You can use a Freud (99-036) Adjustable Tongue and Groove Bit set mounted in a Kreg router table to cut the grooves in the two outer stiles. Alternatively you can use a 1/4" straight router bit set to 3/8" depth. Then use a 1/4" chisel to square up the ends of the grooves. Finish sand with 150 grit sandpaper.
Bottom two rails panel grooves
Bottom two rails are grooved to hold panels. Select two of the three rails you cut in step 2. Use a Freud (99-036) Adjustable Tongue and Groove Bit set mounted in a Kreg router table to cut the grooves in the two rails. The bits are adjusted to cut 1/4" X 3/8" grooves in the center of the board edges. Alternatively the grooves can also be cut on a table saw. Finish sand with 150 grit sandpaper.
Center stile preparation
Please see the following diagram for the center panel stile showing tongue and groove detail. The top and bottom have tongues cut and the left and right side have grooves cut. Use a Freud (99-036) Adjustable Tongue and Groove Bit set mounted in a Kreg router table to cut the tongues and grooves in the center stile. The bits are adjusted to cut 1/4" X 3/8" grooves in the center of both sides and 1/4" X 3/8" tongues on the top and bottom of the central stile. Alternatively the tongues and groves can be cut on a table saw. Finish sand with 150 grit sandpaper.
Cut out the two panels
Cut two panels from 1/4" oak plywood. Finish sand with 150 grit sandpaper.
Preparing the slats
Use Kreg pocket screw jig , drill two pocket holes in both ends of the six 3/4" oak slats cut in step one. Again, it is a good idea to mark where you are putting the holes to prevent mistakes. Now sand using 150 grit as the final finish.
Add pocket holes to the rails
Use Kreg pocket screw jig (set to 3/4" for all pockets on this project), drill three pocket holes in both ends of the three 3/4" oak rails cut in step one. It is a good idea to mark where you are putting the holes to prevent mistakes.
Assemble the frame
Using the two outer stiles, the three rails, the one center stile and the two panels - assemble the frame using wood glue and 1 1/4" fine Kreg pocket screws. Use wood glue on the ends of the rails, on the center stile tongues and along the edges of panels. Clean up any excess glue with a damp rag. Please make sure to have all of the pocket holes facing the same direction as this will be the back of the headboard.
Add the slats
Using Kreg 1 1/4" fine pocket screws add the slats to the headboard frame. To insure an accurate and quick assembly use a four inch spacer to set the distance between the outside stile and the first slat. Screw the slat in place insuring that the slat is flush with the frame. (no glue is needed here) Please make sure to have all of the slat pocket holes and frame pocket holes face the same direction as this will be the back of the headboard. Repeat the process five more times. Sand the front and back of the frame until all joints are flat and smooth.
Add the top
Sand the top piece that was cut in step 1 with 150 grit sandpaper. The top will be mounted on the headboard frame with wood glue and 1 1/4" brad nails. The top should be flush with the back of the frame assembly and overhang the ends by 1/2". This should also result in a 1/2" overhang at the front. Using the appropriate wood putty fill all of the nail holes. Once dry, sand smooth with 150 grit sandpaper.
Now that the build is complete use 220 sandpaper to do a once over on all surfaces in preparation for the finish. Clean well to remove all dust. (I use compressed air and clean dry rags). As we live in an adobe style house, I chose to use weathered oak Minwax Stain. After the stain was dry I used Minwax Tung Oil finish. I gave the headboard three coats following manufacturers instructions.