Sliding Closet Doors with Windows
Update your closet with these beautiful sliding barn doors. Sliding doors add character to any house and are a great replacement for bifold or mirrored doors. The curved window adds a bit of farmhouse style, but still keeps the contents of the closet behind closed doors.
Circular Saw (corded)
- 6 Board , 1x4 , 96"
- 1 Plywood , 1/4" Thick , Full Sheet
Hardware & Supplies
- 8 5 1/4" x 8 3/8" pieces of 1/4" thick acrylic
- 50 1 1/4" pocket hole screws
- 1 Wood glue
Cut List & Parts
- 4 Door stiles , 3/4" x 3 1/2" x 84"
- 8 Door rails , 3/4" x 3 1/2" x 17"
- 2 Window rail , 3/4" x 1" x 17"
- 4 Window stiles , 3/4" x 1" x 4 7/8"
- 2 Door panel , 1/4" x 17 3/8" x 61 7/8"
These sliding barn doors are designed to cover a closet opening of 46". Each door measures 24" wide x 84" tall. Adjust the measurements for your closet opening. These sliding doors are also thinner than a standard door (3/4" thick instead of 1 1/2"). They are perfect for a closet, but you may want to use 2x4 stock with a 1/2" or 3/4" inset if you plan to use them for a standard doorway.
Router frame boards
Cut the door stiles and rails out of 1x4 wood. In the stiles, router a 1/4" deep x 1/4" wide groove in the wood. Start it about 3" in from the top and stop it about 3" in from the bottom. In one door rail, router a groove in one side. In another stile router a groove on both sides. I routered my groove so it was 3/8" from the front of the door ensuring the grooves lined up properly on every board.
Build bottom of frame
Attach the rail that has only 1 grooved edge to the bottom of the stiles using wood glue and pocket holes. Ensure the grooves all face toward the center and line up.
Cut the door panel. I used beadboard paneling for a decorative look. Slide it into the grooves on the door. Attach the rail with grooves on both sides on top of the panel. Secure with wood glue and pocket holes so the top of the rail is 68 1/2" up from the bottom of the door.
Cut the window frame pieces
Rip down left over pieces of the 1x4 boards to 1" thick for the window rails and stiles. Router a groove into both sides of the 1" wide boards. If you are planning on painting or staining the door, I recommend painting or staining the inside of the grooves before proceeding since they will be visible through the clear acrylic panels.
Attach first row of window
Cut one piece of the window frame pieces to 4 7/8". Add pocket holes to the back of both sides of the piece. Attach it to the center of the board with glue and a pocket hole screw so it is centered on the door. Ensure all the grooves are lined up. Slide 2 of the acrylic pieces into the grooves. Drill a pocket hole into both sides of the window 17" rail. Attach it to the top of the door ensuring the acrylic goes inside the groove. Attach with wood glue and pocket hole screws.
Cut top of window curve
On one of the remaining door stiles, measure 1" down on one side. Draw a curve from the 1" mark to the bottom of the other side. Cut curve with a jigsaw. Sand the curve smooth and repeat for the other door. Make sure to mirror the curve. Router a 1/4" groove in the curved side of the stile.
Attach the second row of windows
Cut the remaining piece of grooved window rail board to fit the curve of the door stile. Drill pocket holes in both sides of the back and attach it the center of the door with pocket hole screws. Cut the acrylic pieces so they fit the curve of the door stile. Slide them into the routered grooves and top it off with the curved stile. Attach with pocket hole screws.
Add top of door
Attach the top door stile with wood glue and pocket hole screws so it fills the hole at the top of the door.
Fill the pocket holes with plugs. Then sand and finish the doors. Hang the doors according to the manufacturer's directions for the sliding door hardware you choose.