Printmaker’s Coffee Table | RH Inspired

By Nick + Alicia
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Kreg Academy Kreg Academy

This faux antique Printmaker's coffee table is a beautiful addition to any living room and very simple to build. You can buy a similar piece at Restoration Hardware for $1250 or build it for roughly $125. The drawer fronts are decor only and the top opens revealing plenty of hidden storage space.

Difficulty moderate

Tools

Kreg Tools

Other Tools

  • Miter Saw
    Miter Saw
  • Table Saw
    Table Saw
  • Tape Measure
    Tape Measure
  • Drill (cordless)
    Drill (cordless)
  • Sander
    Sander
  • Shop Vacuum
    Shop Vacuum

Materials

Wood Products

  • 5 Pine , 2x2 , 96"
  • 2 Pine , 1x4 , 96"
  • 5 Pine , 1x6 , 96"
  • 1 Pine Project Board , 3/4" Thick , 20" x 48"

Hardware & Supplies

  • 2 2" Butt-Type Non-Mortise Hinges
  • 1 Wood Glue
  • 1 Wood Stain (Provincial Color by Minwax shown here)
  • 1 Wood Conditioner
  • 1 Matte Wood Protection (Used Dead Flat by Saman)
  • 24 2 1/2" Kreg Pocket Hole Screws
  • 77 1 1/4" Kreg Pocket Hole Screws
  • 6 Crescent Style Handles
See All Tools & Materials

Cut List & Parts

  • 4 Legs , 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 13 3/4"
  • 4 Horizontal End Boards , 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 16 1/2"
  • 2 Top Span Boards , 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 46"
  • 2 Bottom Span Boards , 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 43"
  • 2 Top Two Faux Drawer Fronts , 3/4" x 2" x 43"
  • 1 Bottom Faux Drawer Front , 3/4" x 3 1/2" x 43"
  • 2 Spans between Faux Drawers , 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 43"
  • 4 Side Panels , 3/4" x 5" x 16 1/2"
  • 2 Back Panels , 3/4" x 5" x 43"
  • 3 Inside Bottom , 3/4" x 5.5" x 43"
  • 1 Top using project board , 3/4" x 20" x 47"
See Full Cut List & Parts

Directions

  • Front & Back Frames

    Create two of these frames, one for the front and one for the back. Secure with wood glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws where indicated.

    Step 1

  • Sides

    Attach the front and back ends together with the 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 16.5" pieces using wood glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws as indicated.

    Step 2

  • Bottom/Base

    Drill pocket holes in the locations indicated on the diagram. Dry fit the three boards into the base to ensure they are the right size. Remove, then glue and clamp the three boards together while you connect them with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Insert into the base of the frame, and attach with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

    Step 3

  • Side Panels

    Insert the 3/4" x 5" x 16.5" boards (2 on each side) inside the end frame, but flush with the outside of the frame. Attach with wood glue and 1 1/4" pocket screws. Complete this on both sides of the frame.

    Step 4

  • Back Panels

    Insert the 3/4" x 5" x 43" boards inside the end frame, but flush with the outside of the frame. Attach with wood glue and 1 1/4" pocket screws.

    Step 5

  • Front Boards

    You can't see it in this diagram, however, you'll need two pocket holes at the end of each board for the front. The pieces between the faux drawers will use 2 1/2" pocket hole screws. The faux drawers will use 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Attach as shown on the diagram, making sure that you inset the faux drawers at least 1/8" to give the appearance that they can actually move.

    Step 6

  • Top

    Center the top on the base. Find a helper to hold the top while you attach the Butt-Type Non-Mortise Hinges.

    Step 7

  • Handles

    Mark locations for handles, approximately 14" from the edge of the coffee table. Mark the hole locations required for the handles (using the handles you purchase as a guide - all will be a little different). Drill 5/8" holes and attach handles.

    Step 8

  • Sand, Condition, Stain & Seal

    Sand all parts of the coffee table. If you want an even finish with the stain, make sure you sand well. We wanted a more vintage look so we didn't sand as carefully so that the stain would be absorbed more in some areas and less in others.

    We also used a dead flat varnish to seal and waterproof the piece.

    Step 9