Maple Night Stands
These simple and elegant maple night stands were designed and built to match the maple combination dresser and craft cabinet in our guest bedroom (plans available on buildsomething.com). If you need night stands you can easily build these from just about any type of wood.
- 1 Maple Plywood , 3/4" Thick , Full Sheet
- 1 Maple Plywood , 1/4" Thick , Half Sheet
- 11 Board , Board Feet , Maple
- 6 Board , Board Feet , Poplar
- 1 Oak Board , 1x6 , 36"
Hardware & Supplies
- 25 1 1/4" Kreg coarse and fine pocket screws
- 1 Titebond I Wood Glue
- 10 Sandpaper and Disks 80 - 220 grit
- 25 1 1/4" Brad Nails
- 2 Century Hardware 29517-DSN Majestic Knob, Nickel
- 1 Minwax Polycrylic Satin Finish
- 1 Boiled Linseed Oil
- 1 Minwax Tung Oil
Cut List & Parts
- 2 Top Maple , 3/4" X 17 1/4" X 21"
- 2 Drawer Fronts Maple , 3/4" X 7" X 15"
- 4 Frame Stiles Maple , 3/4" X 24 1/4" X 2 1/2"
- 4 Frame Rails Maple , 3/4" X 14" X 1"
- 4 Sides Maple Plywood , 3/4" X 24 1/4" X 15"
- 2 Top Frame Maple Plywood , 3/4" X 17 1/2" X 14 3/4"
- 2 Bottom Maple Plywood , 3/4" X 17 1/2" X 15"
- 4 Drawer Box Sides Poplar , 1/2" X 15 1/2" X 5 5/8"
- 4 Drawer Box Fronts & Backs Poplar , 1/2" X 14" X 5 5/8"
- 2 Backs Maple Plywood , 1/4" X 21" X 18 1/2"
- 2 Drawer Bottoms Maple Plywood , 1/4" X 15" X 13 1/2"
- 4 Drawer Guides Oak , 3/4" X 14 3/4" X 2 1/8"
The instructions, parts/cut list and hardware are for two night stands.Please be sure to read through complete instructions before you begin any work on this project. Also keep in mind that plywood may be slightly thinner than its stated thickness. So some minor adjustments to plans may be required. Another good practice to use is, after the original cases are assembled, cut to fit all additional pieces that are needed. While every effort was made to make the cut dimensions listed as accurate as possible, cutting to fit will adjust for any slight discrepancies in your assembly. I use rough boards from Albuquerque Hardwoods that I cut, flatten and plane to final dimensions. Dimensional lumber will work as well it will just be more expensive.
Cut 3/4" Maple Boards
Using the dimensions in the cut/parts list cut the pieces required for assembly. Please note that the tops will require three - four pieces for gluing up depending on the size of your boards. It is a good idea to label the individual boards that will make up the top. It is also a good idea to go through the boards and select the parts of the boards that best match color and grain for the glue ups. Use 100 - 150 grit sandpaper to smooth the parts.
For the top edge glue the appropriate boards from step 2. If you are uncomfortable doing this I have attached one site with good information on the process. Please feel free to look at other sites. I normally use my Jet jointer to square and flatten the edges. Lay out the boards to provide the best looking grain. Use multiple clamps to bring the boards together. Make sure that the edges fit together well. Release the clamps and spread Titebond I wood glue along all of the edges to be joined. Avoid using excess glue. Realign the boards and clamp snugly. A picture of a typical clamp up follows.
Cut 3/4" Maple Plywood
Cut 3/4" maple plywood to the dimensions listed in the Parts/Cut List. Smooth plywood with 150 grit sandpaper.
Cut 1/4" Maple Plywood
Cut 1/4" maple plywood to the dimensions listed in the Parts/Cut List. Smooth plywood with 150 grit sandpaper.
Cut Leg Openings
Using a band saw or jig saw cut the leg openings in all four side pieces. Use care to get a smooth cut with no tear out. Also keep in mind that you will be cutting a left and right side for each nightstand...so keep the best looking side out on both.
Rabbet Sides and Bottoms
Use either a table saw or a router table with the appropriate bit to cut a 1/4" by 1/2" rabbet in the back inside edges of the nightstands sides and bottoms. When assembled these rabbets will hold the stand back. If your plywood is thinner than 1/4" you will need to adjust the rabbit to that size. (e.g.15/64" by 1/2")
Add Pocket Holes
Use a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig set to 3/4" to place pocket holes in the sides and front of the case bottom and top support. The two holes in the front edge will hold the frame stiles.
Assemble sides, bottom, and top support using Titebond wood glue and 1 1/4" coarse Kreg pocket screws. Please note...all pocket screws on the bottom should face down and the top support pocket holes should face down. Attach the back using Titebond I wood glue and 1 1/4" brad or finishing nails.
Select the front stiles that were cut in step 2. Add beading detail to inside edges if desired. I use a Freud (80-102) 1/8" Radius Tradition Beading Router Bit. I mount the bit in my Kreg Router Table and set the cutting height to 3/8". Cut the legs on the front stiles using either a band saw or a jig saw. Use Titebond I wood glue, Kreg fine 1 1/4" pocket screws and 1 1/4" brad or finishing nails to attach the frame stiles to the cabinet case.
Select the front rails cut in step 2. Use Titebond I wood glue and use either brad nails or clamps to hold in place until glue dries.
Prepare Drawer Glides
Use close grain oak to make the drawer guides. Using a table saw rip the drawer guides from 3/4" oak. Then use a chop saw to cut to length. Use either a table saw or a router table with the appropriate bit to cut the 1/2" X 3/8" rabbets in the drawer guides. I sand the rabbets and apply paste wax to help the drawers slide easily. Then use a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig set to 3/4" to place pocket holes in the bottom of the guides as shown in the following diagram.
Attach Drawer Guides
Use Titebond I wood glue and 1 1/4" coarse Kreg Pocket screws to attach the guides. The bottom of the guides should be 6" below the bottom of the top rail leaving an opening of 5 3/4" for the drawer box.
Cut Drawer Boxes
Cut the four drawer sides and four drawer fronts/backs from 1/2" poplar (you can use 1/2" plywood but watch the thickness as it might be slightly less than 1/2"). Cut the two drawer bottoms from 1/4" plywood. Please note that my sizes are approximate and will vary depending on how you construct the box corners. I use a Freud (99-240) Drawer lock bit on my Kreg router table to cut all of the corners. I then use my table saw to cut a 1/4" deep X 1/4" wide dado in all sides and fronts/backs. This dado should be 1/4 inch up from the bottom of each board. Once you have completed all of the operations prep all surfaces with 150 grit sandpaper.
Assemble Drawer Boxes
Assemble drawer boxes using the two matched sides, a back, a front and a bottom. Use wood glue at each corner joint and on the edges of the plywood bottom. You can either clamp until the drawers are dry or use pin nails in each corner. Repeat this process three more times until all drawer boxes are complete. Smooth with 150 - 220 grit sandpaper and seal with three coats of Minwax Polycrylic Satin Finish.
Attach Drawer Fronts
Use a round over bit in your router table to ease the edges of the drawer front. Attach the fronts to their drawer boxes. Smooth the drawer fronts with 100 - 220 grit sandpaper.
Cut top assembly to final dimensions and round over the top edges. Smooth top with 100 - 220 grit sandpaper. The top is held in place by four Kreg 1 1/4" fine pocket screws that have flat washers added. (see picture) Drill four 1/4" holes in the top support. Place the top on the cabinet. Center the top, approximately 1" overhang on both sides and 1 1/2" at the front. Insert the screws from the bottom side of the top frame. The screws should be drawn snug but not over tight. This should hold the top in place but allow for any expansion or contraction of the top.
Apply Finish and Pulls
Now that the build is complete use 220 sandpaper to do a once over on all surfaces in preparation for the finish. Clean well to remove all dust. (I use compressed air and clean dry rags) I gave the night stands 2 coats of boiled linseed oil and allowed them to dry for 7 days. Then I gave them three coats of Minwax Tung Oil following manufacturers instructions. After the finish has dried add drawer pulls.