Keep your family organized and schedules visible with this awesome message center. The calendar has plenty of space for jotting down appointments, and a magnetic dry-erase board and a cork board make it easy to post notes. Best of all, it stores writing supplies for easy access.
Circular Saw (corded)
- 1 MDF , 1/2" Thick , Half Sheet
- 4 Board , 1/2" x 2" , 48"
- 1 Board , 1/2" x 3" , 48"
- 1 Board , 1/2" x 4" , 48"
- 1 Board , 1/2" x 6" , 48"
- 1 Board , 1x2 , 96"
- 1 Dowel , 1/4" diameter , 12"
Hardware & Supplies
- 14 1 1/4" fine-thread pocket-hole screws
- 2 #8 x 2" flathead wood screws
- 2 #8 x 2 1/2" flathead wood screws
- 1 22" x 17" desk pad calendar
- 1 12" x 12" cork tiles, 4-pack
- 1 Dry-erase markers, 4-pack, assorted colors
- 1 Dry-erase eraser
- 1 12" x 12" dry-erase magnetic board
- 1 Countersink drill bit
- 1 45° chamfer router bit
- 1 Kreg Rip-Cut
Cut List & Parts
- 1 Back , 1/2" x 28 5/8" x41 3/16"
- 2 Outer Trim Stile , 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 41 3/16"
- 1 Center Trim Stile , 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 12 1/16"
- 1 Upper Trim Rail , 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 25 5/8"
- 1 Lower Trim Rail , 1/2" x 5 1/2" x 25 5/8"
- 2 Edge Stile , 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 41 11/16"
- 1 Cap , 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 31 5/8"
- 1 Long Tray Back , 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 12 1/2"
- 1 Short Tray Back , 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 8"
- 11 Divider , 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 1"
- 1 Tray Front , 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 28 5/8"
- 1 Tray Bottom , 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 28 5/8"
- 2 Calendar Peg , 1/4" diameter x 1 1/4"
Create the Back
Cut the Back to size from 1/2" medium-density fiberboard (MDF), as shown in the cutting diagram. With your pocket-hole jig set for 1/2" material, drill pocket holes in the Back where shown.
Cut the Trim Boards
Cut the Outer Trim Stiles, Center Trim Stile, Upper Trim Rails, and Lower Trim Rail to length from 1/2"-thick boards (we used oak), as shown in the cutting diagram. To make sure like trim parts are exactly the same length, measure and mark carefully and use a stop block on your miter saw. Sand the trim parts smooth (180-grit sandpaper should suffice), and then apply two coats of semigloss polyurethane to the fronts and edges (not the backs).
Paint the Backgrounds
Before you attach the trim boards, it’s a good idea to go ahead and paint the areas of the Back that will be visible surrounding the calendar and dry-erase board. You don’t want to paint the entire face of the Back, as that would prevent glue from adhering to attach the trim boards and the cork later. So, apply masking tape as shown, and then paint these two areas. Remove the tape once the paint dries.
Apply the Trim
Glue the Outer Trim Stiles, Center Trim Stile, Upper Trim Rails, and Lower Trim rail to the Back, and use clamps, tape, or weights to hold them in place. Wipe away any excess glue with a damp rag.
Cut the Outer Frame Parts
Cut the Cap and Edge Stiles to length from 3/4"-thick oak boards, as shown in the cutting diagram. You can leave the cap as is, or dress it up, as we did, with a decorative chamfer. To create that, use a trim router and a 45° chamfer bit to form the chamfers on the ends and front edge of the Cap. You’ll want to create the chamfer in a few progressively-deeper passes. Sand the parts to 180 grit and apply two coats of semigloss polyurethane to all surfaces.
Add the Cap and Edge Stiles
With the rear edge of the Cap and rear face of the Back flush, center the Cap on the Back and clamp it in place with bar clamps. Drive 1 1/4" fine-thread pocket-hole screws to secure the cap. Then position each Edge Stile so the rear edge is flush with the rear face of the Back, and the upper end is pushed against the underside of the Cap and clamp. Attach the Edge Stiles using 1 1/4" fine-thread pocket-hole screws.
Form the Tray Parts
From 1/2"-thick and 3/4"-thick oak boards, cut the tray parts to length. Use a compass to draw the half-circle cutout on the Tray Front. Cut the arched shape using a jigsaw, and then sand the cutout to the line. Sand all of the tray parts.
Glue the Dividers to the Tray Backs
Using a square and pencil, draw guide lines for positioning the Dividers on the front faces of the Long Tray Back and Short Tray Back. Glue and clamp the Dividers to the Tray Backs. Let the glue dry.
Assemble the Tray
Glue and clamp the Tray Bottom to the Tray Front, keeping the bottom face of the Tray Bottom and the lower edge of the Tray Front flush. Glue and clamp the tray back/divider assemblies to the Tray Bottom and Tray Front. With the glue dry, apply two coats of semigloss polyurethane.
Attach the Tray to the Back
Clamp the tray in place between the Edge Stiles and against the Lower Trim Rail. The Tray Bottom covers the bottom edge of the Back. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the Back and Lower Trim Rail and into the Tray Dividers. Secure the tray with flathead wood screws.
Add Pegs, Dry-Erase Board, and Cork
Center the calendar in the upper frame. Using the holes in the calendar as guides, mark the locations on the back. Drill 1/4" holes through the back. Cut the Calendar Pegs to length from 1/4" dowel and sand slight chamfers on the ends with sandpaper and a sanding block. Glue the Pegs into the holes, driving them in until the ends are flush with the rear face of the Back. Adhere the magnetic dry-erase board using the tape that comes with it, or using double-faced carpet tape. Next, apply double-faced tape to the Back inside the lower right-hand frame. Adhere one cork tile. Apply double-faced tape to the cork tile and add a second tile. (The combined thickness of two cork tiles holds push pins much better than the thickness of a single tile.)
Hang and Stock the Message Center
Locate two studs in the wall where you wish to hang the Message Center. Drill countersunk holes that align with the studs through the Back. Position the Message Center on the wall and drive #8 x 2 1/2" flathead wood screws. Hang the calendar on the Calendar Pegs and stock the tray with dry-erase markers, eraser, adhesive note pad, a box of push pins, and fine-tip markers, pens, and pencils.