Outdoor Bistro Table
Build this gorgeous outdoor side table that will stand out and set your porch apart!
This is a great intermediate skill level project that uses all solid wood and multiple joinery techniques.
- 5 White Oak , 8/4 , Bf
- 8 White Oak , 4/4 , Bf
Hardware & Supplies
- 52 1-1/4" Pocket Hole Screws, Stainless Steel
- 16 Exterior Glue
- 1 Varathane Classic Gray Stain
- 1 General Finished Exterior 450, Satin Finish
Cut List & Parts
- 1 Table Top , 3/4" x 24"
- 4 Table Leg , 2" x 2" x 21-1/4"
- 4 Apron , 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 15-3/8"
- 4 Brace , 1" x 1" x 14-1/8"
As with all woodworking projects, the first thing to do is lay out your boards, make your rough cuts and start dimensioning material.
Jigs and Templates
This project is made easier by building a few basic templates and jigs.
I made a template for the outer table top ring, a circle to fit inside that ring, the apron, and lower braces.
I made a taper cutting jig for the legs along with a jig to cut the curved mortise in the top of each leg.
First, I'd like to say thanks for checking out this plan!
Secondly, this is a bit more of an advanced project so I've done my best to break all the steps down and made a YouTube video to help further explain things!
I hope you love this project as much as I do and let me know how it goes!
The table top is made up of an outer ring with several slats glued and screwed to it.
To make the outer ring I first glued up a panel that was large enough to cut the ring from. I used my table top template to aid in this process.
Once the glue had cured, I cut it to rough size using the bandsaw and jigsaw. To cut the ring to it's final size, I used the router table and a flush trim router bit.
For the center slats, I cut them to their appropriate sizes by screwing them to a circular template (spaced according to the plans), rough cutting them on the bandsaw, and then using a flush trim bit on the router table. Next I drilled pocket holes in the end of each slat and secured them to the outer ring with ss pocket hole screws.
The table legs are the single most in-depth part of this entire project. But by breaking down the steps it's very doable.
The first thing is to bring our stock down to size. With that done I opted to do the most difficult task first. I routed the curved slot in the top of each leg. This slot accepts the apron and needs to be fairly accurate and snug.
The easiest way to accomplish this was to build a jig which you can see in the YouTube video.
After routing the curved slot I used a dado stack to cut the notch for the lower braces. Any number of tools can be used to cut this feature is a dado stack is not available.
The final task is to taper the legs which I accomplished using a taper sled.
Apron & Braces
The apron and braces are made by first rough cutting to shape on the bandsaw and then using a template and flush trim bit in the router table to form them to their final shape.
I drill a series of counterbored holes in the apron to attach the legs to the table top.
I drill a pocket hole in the end of the braces.
To assembly the base, I dry-fit everything in place and use a combination of strap clamps and mini E-Z hold clamps to firmly hold everything in place.
I use ss pocket hole screws and first secure the braces to the legs. I then flip the assembly right side up and drive screws through the apron into the legs.
With the base complete I center the top on the apron and drive screws through the remaining four holes in the apron into the table top.
We used Varathane classic gray to stain the tables and followed up with General Finished Exterior 450 in satin.
Make sure to check out the YouTube video!
Copy and paste: https://youtu.be/paFHGrikSGU
or check out the "Extras" tab
Check out my blog post!
I hope you loved this project!