Big step to a functional workshop is organization! This simple finishing and supply cabinet can be built in a weekend. This holds quart sized paint cans, spray paints, extra glue bottles and other supplies that are frequently used. Check out our Youtube Video in the Extras Tab!
Tools
Kreg Tools
Other Tools
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Circular Saw (cordless)
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Miter Saw
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Table Saw
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Track Saw
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Drill (cordless)
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Sander
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Kreg featherboard
Materials
Wood Products
- 2 Board , 1x2 , 96"
- 1 Plywood , 3/4" Thick , Full Sheet
- 1 Edge Banding , Roll , 3/4"
Hardware & Supplies
- 1 Box of 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
- 1 Strip of 1 1/4" Brad Nails
- 6 *Optional* Hinges for the Door
- 1 Varnish to finish cabinet
Directions
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Break Down the Plywood
The safest way to breakdown plywood is on the ground. I use a track saw, but a circular saw and a reliable straight edge works just as well.
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Layout Lines
One way to get the most out of a plywood sheet is to mark your layout lines. Cut the pieces oversized and when it is more manageable to work with, rip it on the table saw for a final width.
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Rough Cuts
Cabinet Sides and Top and Bottom: Rip the plywood at (1)13" wide by 96" long. They will be ripped on the table saw for exact width later.
Shelves: Rip (4) 51/2" by 96" long pieces. These will be ripped for the final width later as well.
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Rip Cabinet Sides to Width
On the table saw rip the the 13" by 96" board to (2) 6" by 96"boards.
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Rip for the Shelves
With the help of the feather board rip the (4) 5 1/2" x 96 " boards to (4) 5 1/4" by 96"boards.
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Miter saw
For the Cabinet crosscut (2) 6" wide by 66" long and (2) 6" wide by 30" long . For the shelves crosscut (12) 5 1/4" wide by 30" long. *If you do adjustable shelves, cut two shelves later to fit*. NOTE: You won't use all 12 for the shelves. Some will be used as a nailer to hang the cabinet up on the wall.
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*Optional Edge Band*
This is an extra step but edge banding gives the shelves a very clean and professional look.
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Pocket Hole
On 10 of the 5 1/4" by 30" pieces drill pocket holes to screw into the cabinet sides. Set aside the two shelves that will be adjustable, they do not need pocket holes drilled into them.
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Spacer for shelves
I used a spacer a little taller then a quart can (5 1/4") to begin my shelf layouts. Depending on what you will store in the cabinet, adjust the height of the shelves to your needs. I used 7 shelves screwed to the cabinet sides, 2 adjustable shelves and 3 shelves where perpendicular to the 7 fixed shelves, spaced throughout the cabinet. The 3 perpendicular shelves act as a nailer for the cabinet to get screwed to the wall into studs.
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Adjustable Shelves
After the last shelf is screwed to the cabinet side. Use the adjustable shelf jig for the adjustable shelves.
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Groove for the Adjustable Shelves
With the table saw or router, create a groove where the adjustable shelf pins will rest on the underside of the shelf. This will act as a catch, so the shelf will not tip over.
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Adjustable Shelf Lip
Add a thin piece of scrap wood you have laying around the shop to use as a catch so nothing rolls off. Attach the wood trim that is slightly taller then the 3/4" plywood. This is optional.
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Face Frame
For a solid wood face frame cut (2) 3/4" thick by 1 1/2" wide by 66" long pieces and attach to the long cabinet sides with glue and brad nails. The rails, can be cut to size with another 3/4" by 1 1/2" solid wood stock.
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*Optional* Door
I like to have my cabinet doors covered so there isn't any unwanted dust laying around my shop. I added a MDF door, that I cut to size.